Behind the Vines

We’re Not in Kansas Anymore

by Farley on February 27th, 2008

Or at least that’s how it felt after having been buzzed through the gate, then walking up the drive and through the tall, parabolic doors leading into the side of a mountain that is Jarvis Winery.  We stepped out of the cold, rainy day into the surprisingly warm and carpeted entrance, low-lit sconces on the walls putting off a muted glow.  We began our tour heading back farther into the cave, following our guide into darker depths.  He told us the circular tunnel took 2 1/2 years to dig, and the reason for that set-up, with another tunnel running through the middle alongside the stream— complete with a little waterfall—is so that the winemaker is never too far from any barrel. The barrels are actually only one deep, no stacking.

Whereas some wineries make use of caves for aging and storing wine, the entire operation at Jarvis takes place in the 45,000 square feet.  We saw the shorter, wider fermentors that make for an increased cap.  We peaked into the barreling section. We all felt a little awe in the crystal chamber with its displays of huge pieces of amethyst from Brazil and quartz from Arkansas, then later the impressive ballroom where they have grandiose parties and masquerade balls, and finally the fancy ladies’ room with its twinkling lights on the ceiling. We walked past the ornate doors with each of the owners’ names—William and Leticia—carved into the design, hiding their offices. 

The couple bought the estate back in 1985 as a weekend getaway and the winery opened a decade later, after a good deal of research and experimentation, plus digging the intricate tunnel and chamber system.  All wines are estate grown: 9,000 cases from 37 acres.  We finished our tour with an elaborate tasting set-up. The only wine I took with me was the first we tasted, though I would have taken more had my budget been more forgiving.

2006 Jarvis Estate Chardonnay: honeysuckle, pear, apple, grapefruit, lightly buttered toast then moving into more tropical pineapple and apricots (2nd favorite)

2003 Jarvis Cabernet Franc: chimenea, green olives, lavender, salami, ocean air, leather, cranberry

2002 Jarvis Lake William Blend (of the five major Bordeaux varietials, manily Cab and Cab Franc):  blackberry, violets, anise, earth, pepper

2000 Jarvis Cabernet Sauvignon: cocoa, hay, almost grass, eucalyptus, celery/ fruit comes second–currants  (least favorite)

2002 Jarvis Cabernet Sauvignon: “hello, fruit, the black kind… oh, hell yeah, dried cherries” was what I wrote about my preferred wine of the tasting

2001 Jarvis Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve: smoke, tobacco, warmed cherries, figs, dark chocolate

The opulence was  almost intimidating to those of us accustomed to leaking roofs and peeling paint that comes with a tasting room in a warehouse, but the wines made us feel at ease. 

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POSTED IN: Napa Valley, winery visits