Behind the Vines

Cow Horns and Chamomile

by Farley on September 8th, 2007

Thanks to Fork & Bottle for hosting For Wine Blogging Wednesday #29.

Once the winemaker at Fogarty asked me to help him with a letter to his Martella club members, concerning his attraction to biodynamic wines and decision to make more of them. So I read Hugh Courtney’s 40+ page introduction to What Is Biodynamics?: A Way to Heal and Revitalize the Earth : Seven Lectures to get an idea of the practice. While it’s often likened to organic farming, it goes much deeper than that. At the heart is the idea that the Earth is a living being.

And in Courtney’s own words:
… the biodynamic farmer puts his feelings specifically into actual physical world practice through the use of the biodynamic preparations.

Well, those preparations might make some people shiver just a bit. Ingredients for the nine preparations range from rather basic chamomile, yarrow, and cow manure to the more out-there vessels for holding them: cow horns, a stag’s bladder, and the fresh skull of a domestic animal. However, the use of these preparations has been known to help make for an earlier harvest, increase topsoil, and provide relief in drought conditions.

And as long as I don’t think too much about the how of it, I can appreciate the why, as well as the results.

Since Michael Martella inspired my interest in the first place, I reviewed the 2003 Martella Mendocino ‘Fairbairn Ranch’ Syrah first. It’s made with Demeter-certified grapes that come from a vineyard owned by Joe and Julie Golden, including 5% Petite Syrah. I love this wine because it’s always changing. Sometimes I get black pepper, raspberry, and plum. Later I might get a little tobacco and cedar. Then another time I’ll find licorice and tea. Whatever flavors jump out, the strong tannins are consistent– making this one that you want to drink half the first night and save the rest for later–to see what else you can find.

Michael also pointed me towards the 2005 CeAgo ‘Kathleen’s Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc from Lake County. This one was a little reluctant at first to give me much on the nose, until I caught a bit of citrus and flowers. When I first tasted it, the slight effervescence tickled my tongue then made way for lime, stone, and menthol. I thought there might have been a little oak, which I don’t usually like in a Sauv Blanc, and when I read the notes online, I found that 15% had been put in new barrels for 2 months. Enough to notice but not enough to make me mad.

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POSTED IN: Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, out-there wine stuff